4 large baking potatoes or good quality Maris Piper/King edwards
Single cream
1/2 chicken stock cube
ground black pepper
cheddar cheese
mozzarella cheese

Cut the potatoes into thin slices.Salt them generously.
Place them in a bowl with boiling water and microwave on full for a few minutes until they are slightly softened
After they cool, place them in layers ina deep baking tray
When you ahve done all the layers, mix together the cream and crumbled chicken stock cube. Por over the potatoes until they are covered (not swimming in them!)
Put in oven at 200C for 30 mins
Cover with cheddar and mozarella
Put back in oven till golden brown
Leave to sit for 10 mins before serving.

Serves 2 montaditos each for 4 people

8 Very thin slices of pork loin (with very little fat)
5-6 cloves of garlic
fresh flat leaf parsley
Good quality olive oil
parma/serrano ham slices
2 large baguettes (the soft squishy kind)
juice of 1 lemon

1. Marinate the pork loins in the garlic, parsley, oil and lemon. make sure they are well cobvered and chill for a few hours
2. Cut the baguette into small sections, enough to fit each loin in! Slice lengthways and flatten with your hand.
3. Place pork loins in a George Foreman or conventional grill until they are done (keep them juicy!) keep spooning in the oil and garlic mixture as the cook.
4. put loin in baguette, place small sklice of ham on top and serve.

TIP. I usually make some pepper sauce and spoon a tiny dollop on the pork loin. You can buy Coleman Pepper sauce in packets for a quick version!

HTML resources(word document)

Multiple IE (use this handy tool to check your work against all the older Internet explorer versions - info and download on this page

Internet developer toolbar (use this to debug your css and see how others have built their sites more info in the download site)

more info on how best to use the toolbar here

Goodies

(right click or Option click and ’save as’)

Photoshop file: icons
Photoshop file: arrows
Photoshop file: miscellaneous
Photoshop file: bullets

Accessible form

(must read the read me file!)

In InDesign, we can choose to create page guides and spread guides. Here’s how.

1To start drawing page guides, use the Selection Tool (black arrow) - Click on the horizontal ruler and drag a guide to the desired position on the page. Use the vertical rulers to give you an accurate position if you need it.

2When you let go, the guide will be automatically ‘dropped’ - you can change its position by clicking on it with the Selection Tool and moving it. You can also drag it back into the ruler to delete it.

3To create guides that span across a spread of pages, the important difference is that when you drag the guides down or across, you ‘drop’ the guide on the pasterboard, not the page.

4As you can see in this screenshot, I am dragging the guide into the pasterboard, not any individual pages. It helps if you zoom in and out here!

5We’re done! here is the spread showing one horizontal spread guide and 2 individual page guides.

Warning- some of the language is NSFW!

You suck at Photoshop 1
You suck at Photoshop 2

Plus 2 more as related items on youtube. Enjoy!

In this tutorial you will learn how to use the symbol sprayer to maximum effect, to create a floral border for a birthday invite.

1Look for that spray can icon on your toolbox, the Symbol Sprayer Tool

2Draw a small graphic. I made my flower using brush patterns. You’re welcome to it- flower illustrator file

3Select the graphic and drag it into the empty area in the symbols panel.

4If all has gone well, you will now see the graphic inside the symbol panel.

5Use these settings : Diameter: 100% Intensity: 5 Symbol Set Density: 5

6Draw a curvy path with the tool- notice that the tool is pressure sensitive- the longer you leave the airbrush in the same position, the more symbols it ’sprays’ out

7You have created a random pattern using the symbol. But it looks too even- let’s see how we can make it more random…

8
Now select the Symbol Sizer Tool.

9Make sure the symbol set (group) is selected as shown:

10Place the brush over an instance of the symbol, in the centre. Only the symbols under the brush circumference will be affected, so if its too large or small, resize the brush using { and }:

11Click a few times to slowly increase the size. Best do it click by click- holding the mouse button down will give you very big increases!

12Repeat the process, making some random symbols larger.

13To make symbols smaller, hold down the ALT key- this ‘reverses’ the tool.

14Now we want to change the rotation so the uniform symbols appear more naturally random. Serlect Symbol Spinner Tool from the flyout:

15When you click on a symbol, a blue arrow appears - hold down the mouse button and rotate this arrow to change the angle of rotation. Again, only the symbols under the brush will be affected.

16Some semi transparent symbols would be good- select the Symbol Screener Tool for this.

17This one works the same as the others- click to gradually lower the image opacity- and hold down ALTt to reverse the effect if you need to.

18To ‘tint’ some of the instances, select the Symbol Stainer Tool as shown below:

19Select a fill colour- the brighter the better - and click to add tints. Change the fill colour as you go along.

20The completed border.

What else is in the menu?
To bring some of the symbols to the front, use the Symbol Shifter Tool
To move items away from the cursor (brush diameter) use the Symbol Scruncher Tool

remember to use ALt for the reverse effect!

This tute reminds me of my days working for a new media company where we would often get company logos as letterheads or business cards, and we had to scan them in to use in websites.

The client invariable wanted their logo to sit on their corporate colour, gradients, etc. ahhh how I used to pray to the Photoshop gods, asking for a quick solution to speed up my crazyworkload!

One day, as if by magic, I happened upon a curious mistake: whilst using blend modes, I observed that the blend mode multiply effectively knocked out the white pixels in my logo, giving me great results on pure black and white logos.I could now position the logo on gradients, textures- you name it!

This technique has served me very well when doing 2 or 3 colour print jobs too.

1The Scenario: you need to position a few logos on a dark coloured annual brochure or website.You want to create some kind of consistency and neatness, quickly!

2Paste the logo on a new layer above the gradient background. Make sure "Show Transform Tools" is selected in the Control Palette and start ersizing the logo if necessary- remember Shift as you resize, to keep proportions good!

3From the layer blend modes dropdown, select Multiply.

4Done!

5Try it with another logo. This one has areas of dark green.

6Works well, but you might want to desaturate this layer to make the green logo graphic black.

In this tutorial we will look at the Screen Blend Mode. We will use a textured background and another photograph to create an interesting effect.

1I have chosen this rusty textured background as my base layer.

2Open another image, one with large areas of a light colour will work well for this effect. Copy this image (best if they are roughly the same size)

3Paste the image above the textured base layer

4From the layer blend mode menu, choose "Screen"

5Your image will magically lighten.

What’s going on? Screen is the direct opposite of multiply (have a look at my other tutorials) It takes both the blend colour and the base colour, inverts their values, then multiplies them to always create a lighter colour.
For the best explanation ever about Blend Modes, go to Ron Bigelow’s blend mode articles. he explains it all from a photography angle, pretty comprehensive with good examples.

6The Screen blend mode has taken the pixels from both layers and compared them: it then inverted their values, and multiplied them, creating lighter colours for the result. Some areas (the "rusty" parts of the base layer) resulted in darker tones, so part of the base layer shows through, whilst lifgter parts are "screened" white - the result of two light colours being multiplied.
We will now remove some of these darker areas by selecting the Base layer as shown, and the eraser tool form the toolbox.

7Use the { and } keys to increase and decrease the size of the brush.

8From the control palette, choose a soft, semi-opaque eraser brush as shown:

9With the eraser tool, keep going along the edge of the image. Use shift to keep a straight line.

8The finished image.

The tool works best if the background is all a similar colour, for example, someone against a solid colour or a bright sky.

1I have deliberately chosen a difficult image, as the girl has flyaway hair that i want to keep.

2From the toolbox, select the background eraser tool

3When the tool is selected, the control palette will display the default settings. Select the 3rd button, Sampling:Foreground Swatch This will only erase the foreground colour. Set the tolerance to 25%
Make sure Protect Foreground Colour is ticked.Selecting the option Sampling:Foreground Swatch allows you to sample the background colour most prominent in your image, so the eraser will ignore contrasting colour pixels.

Choosing to Protect Foreground Colour allows you to sample a foreground colour to protect from the eraser.

4Now we need to sample the background colour to erase. Select the background swatch in your toolbox, and double click to bring up the colour panel.

5Select the background colour with the eyedropper, right click to select a 51X51 average. This will make sure that the area sampled will be larger than just one pixel, so many shades of light blue will be included instead of just a singular blue pixel.
Next, select the foreground to protect (we will start with the girl’s hair) I will use a 11X11 average for this. Notice the colours on my background and foreground swatches.

6Choose a nice big size for the brush. Use CTRL (CMD) and the bracket keys({}) to change the brush size.

7Think of the brush as a sort of magic wand tool, that erases selections based on the colour it clicks on. The more a colour is prersent under the "radius" of the brush, the more photoshop will think it is the background colour, and erase it.

8You can now get nearer the edge, just remember that you want more of the colour to be erased, less of the protected colours, under the brush!

9Notice that to select the more fiddly edges, I am positioning the centre of the brush on top of the light blue, not the hair.

10These settings will remain true for similar areas, as soon as we get to areas with different colurs, for example the girl’s blouse, we need to select different colours to ‘protect’ - use the eyedropper to select the new foreground colour, right click to select a 51X51 pixel average.

11 You will need to change foreground and background colours often as you work through the image.

12Now open another image, perhaps an outdoor image like a beach or busy street.
Paste the selection of the girl above it, resize to fit and get rid of any stray white areas with a soft brush eraser.

13To tidy up any stray white edges around the hair, we will darken some parts of the imageSelect the Burn Tool

14From the Range dropdown options, select highlights and an exposure of 25% or thereabouts.

15Now go over the edges of the hair to darken (burn) any stray highlights or white halos on the edges.

16The finishing touches:
Image>adjustments>levels to increase tonal contrast on the background to match the girl image. This is a quick and dirty fix, As this tute is about the background eraser tool, not levels
Position the girl so her eyes are aligned with the horizon, to make the perspective credible.
You’re done!